Helen
Balkwill-Clark
When
I arrived in abandoned Aden in early 1968, I
used to wonder so much about the people that
had once lived at the Dhobi Lines flats.
The few kids of us that there were used to
roam around the compound (we were well
fenced in by copious loops of barbed wire)
while our parents were asleep in the
afternoons. Sometimes we would break into
the many empty flats there, and could find
household items - left behind, as if their
owners would be coming back for them. Some
of the flats, I seem to remember, were given
over to laundry equipment (hence: 'Dhobi'
Lines?).* In the sand around the flats we
would find glass marbles around the place.
The kids that lived there before us must
have been mad keen on playing marbles(?)
We collected so many of them, that we were
able to play our own games of marbles.
Also, I remember seeing - beyond the barbed
wire perimeter - a redundant children's
playground; neither we, nor the Arab
children were allowed to play there - it was
heavily patrolled.

Dhobi Lines
flat, Khormaksar 2007. Arrow points to
former home of webmaster, Peter Pickering
In
fact, except at school (St Francis at
Steamer Point), we were kept very much away
from all of the local population.
Sometimes, when we strayed too close to the
barbed wire fence, we would have stones
thrown at us by locals. All of the
families in the Dhobi Lines compound at that
time were Airworks personnel - seconded to
the South Yemen Airforce. After about 7 or
8 months we all left the flats for houses at
the White City compound, over the road.
The reason we had not been able to move
there first is that those houses had been
trashed at the time of the withdrawal
(largely, apparently, by British personnel
not wanting to leave the infrastructure to
Arab terrorists) and needed to be
overhauled.
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A Somali
ayah who worked for British forces
families in 1940 |
My other vivid memory of the weird
sense of 'abandonment' in Aden is
the large number of both former
domestic pets roaming around the
place - looking for homes. Also
the unemployed Somali ayahs. When,
on the few occasions that they would
get close to us in streets and
shops, they saw my mother with us
kids, they would beseech her to take
them on to look after us. It was
quite pitiful. And I understand
that many turned to prostitution in
desperation.
Ah! What a strange life it
was.
Helen
Balkwill-Clark
royclark2 @ compuserve.com
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* The servicemen's
flats, known colloquially as "The Dhobi Lines",
were so named as they were located next to the
Arab laundry (dhobi) area where there were
always lines full of washing. The Arab
launderers were known as dhobi wallahs.
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